Renting a Car & Driving in Italy: What to Know Before You Hit the Road
Last Updated on March 17, 2026 by Lauren Belzer Sanford
When it comes to getting around Italy, trains are usually my first recommendation — and I even wrote an entire guide to train travel in Italy on exactly why. But certain parts of the country simply beg to be explored at your own pace, with no schedule and no station clock telling you when to move. Regions like Puglia and the Tuscan countryside reveal themselves slowly — down olive-lined backroads, through hilltop towns that don’t appear on any rail map, past masserie and villas tucked behind ancient stone walls. For those places, having your own car makes all the difference.
For our trip to Puglia in June 2025 — where we got married at a dreamy masseria outside Ostuni — renting a car was one of the best decisions we made. We got our International Driving Permits through AAA before we left, picked up our rental at the Bari Airport, and spent the next week getting delightfully lost on roads that didn’t show up fully reliably on Google Maps. It was, in every sense, part of the adventure.
Here’s everything we learned about renting a car and driving in Italy as Americans — from what to bring, what to watch out for, and a few things we genuinely wish someone had told us before we arrived.
What Size Car to Rent in Italy
This is one of the most practical decisions you’ll make before your trip, and it’s worth thinking about before you book. Italian roads — especially in the south and in smaller town centers — are narrow in ways that will genuinely surprise you. Stone walls leave almost no margin for error, and parking spaces in small villages are sized for vehicles that would look comically tiny back home.
Our honest recommendation: go smaller than you think you need. A compact or mid-size car is usually the sweet spot — enough trunk space for luggage without making every narrow street feel like a calculated risk. If you’re traveling as a couple, you might even find a small hatchback surprisingly comfortable. Save the SUV for Italian road trips where space is actually the point.
Renting a Car in Italy
Car rentals are widely available throughout Italy, but the most convenient places to pick one up are typically at major airports (like Rome Fiumicino or Bari Airport) and train stations. This is where you’ll find the largest selection and most competitive pricing. These hubs often have all the big international brands like Sixt, Hertz, Avis, Budget, Europcar, and Enterprise, as well as some local Italian companies that can offer lower rates (or shorter wait times at the counter).
Keep in mind that manual transmissions are the norm in Italy, and automatics sell out quickly — so reserve early if you prefer to drive an automatic. You’ll also need to bring your passport, driver’s license, International Driving Permit (IDP), and a credit card in the driver’s name.
Each person who will be driving the car needs to be on the rental reservation. You can add this at booking, or in-person when you pick up the car, but it is typically an additional fee.
Pro Tip: Driving and parking in “bigger” cities like Rome, Florence, or Naples can be stressful and expensive, so it’s often easier to take public transportation in the city, then pick up your rental from a train station or car rental outpost before heading to your countryside or coastal destinations.
Would you rather skip the car for a day and let someone else take the wheel? If you’re spending time in Puglia, a guided food or wine tour is one of the best ways to experience the region without worrying about ZTL zones or where to park. I especially love using Viator for booking day tours — the selection in southern Italy is genuinely excellent.
International Driving Permit (IDP)
If you’re visiting Italy from outside the European Union (EU)—especially from the United States—you’ll need an International Driving Permit (IDP) to rent and drive a car legally. This document is essentially a translation of your driver’s license into several languages, confirming that you’re licensed to drive in your home country.
It’s easy (and inexpensive) to get. In the U.S., you can get it through AAA—no appointment required. Just show up between regular business hours with the following in hand:
- Your valid U.S. driver’s license
- Two passport-sized photos (some locations will actually take them for you)
- A completed IDP application form
Expect to pay appx. $20.00 USD (per IDP) for processing.
The process only takes a few minutes, and you’ll walk out with the permit in hand (it somewhat resembles a paper passport). While some rental companies in Italy may not ask to see it, others absolutely will—and Italian law requires you to carry it along with your passport and driver’s license whenever you’re behind the wheel. Keep in mind that the IDP is valid for one year.
You may be wondering: Do I really need one? Technically, yes—and it’s worth the peace of mind. We got ours at our local AAA office before our trip to Puglia, and the process couldn’t have been easier. The Budget rental kiosk at the Bari Airport asked to see Max’s IDP since he was the driver on our reservation, and Italian police can request it during traffic stops. Fines for not having one can be steep. For only 20 bucks, it’s an easy box to check before your trip.
Insurance & Picking Up Your Car
When you arrive at the counter to pick up your rental car, expect to be offered several types of insurance. This is where things can get a little confusing, and you could end up spending more than you want to if you’re not prepared.
Most car rentals in Italy already include basic coverage, but you’ll likely be asked about optional add-ons like:
- Collision Damage Waiver (CDW): Reduces or removes your financial responsibility if the car is damaged.
- Theft Protection (TP): Covers costs if your car is stolen (personal belongings aren’t included).
- Super CDW or Zero Excess: Upgraded options that reduce your out-of-pocket cost to zero in the event of an incident.
Before you agree to anything, it’s helpful to check (and be up-to-date on) your credit card benefits. Many travel-focused cards include CDW coverage, which means you can decline the rental company’s version. Just make sure to use that same card to pay for the rental.
When you pick up your car, make sure to inspect it thoroughly before leaving the lot. Take photos or a quick video of any scratches, dents, or scuffs (including the wheels and under the bumper) and ensure the rental agent notes them, if there is anything worth noting.
Driving in Italy: What to Know
Driving in Italy can feel like an adventure in itself—but once you settle in, it’s surprisingly intuitive. Roads are generally well-maintained (as much as Italian roads get a bad rap), and GPS directions are pretty reliable. But there are a few quirks worth knowing before you hit the road.
The Roads
Italian roads are generally well-maintained, but they can be narrow, especially in small towns (and even one-lane rural areas) like those in Puglia. Expect winding roads bordered by ancient stone walls, sharp turns, and the occasional tractor leading the way. Roundabouts are far more common than stop signs, and they actually help traffic flow better once you get used to them. My biggest piece of advice? Stay calm, take your time, and don’t be afraid to pull over if you need a moment to breathe (or check the map).
Italian Drivers
Italian drivers have a reputation for being fast and assertive, which is mostly true — but they’re also surprisingly predictable. Once you learn that tailgating doesn’t necessarily mean aggression (it’s just… how they drive), it becomes less intimidating. If you’re driving slower or sightseeing, stay in the right lane and let locals pass. It’s all part of the unspoken etiquette.
Speed Limits & Road Signs
Speed limits are posted in kilometers per hour (km/h), not miles — so 100 km/h is about 62 mph. Keep an eye out for small white circular signs with a red border; those are your limits. Italy is also big on speed cameras, especially on highways (autostrade) and near towns. You won’t get pulled over (the ticket arrives by mail later), so it’s best to stick close to the limit.
ZTL Signs (Zona Traffico Limitato)
One of the most important things to know before driving into any Italian city or historic town is the ZTL — Zona Traffico Limitato. These restricted traffic zones are designed to preserve historic centers and reduce congestion, and they’re marked by signs with a red circle that can look deceptively like ordinary street signage. If you accidentally drive through one without a permit, expect a fine in the mail weeks (even months) later.
The simplest way to avoid them entirely: park just outside the town walls and walk in. We did this in Ostuni and Alberobello, and honestly, it was the better experience anyway — arriving on foot through the old city gates, without the stress of navigating tight cobblestone streets in a rental car. Even Google Maps can route you directly into a ZTL zone without warning, so when in doubt, park and walk.
Tolls & Autostrada
Major highways, called autostrade, often require tolls. Some have ticket systems where you grab a ticket upon entering and pay when you exit; others have flat-rate booths. You can pay by card or cash, and the process is surprisingly simple once you do it once. Just make sure you enter the right lane (look for the “Carte” sign if you’re paying by card, or “Contanti” for cash).
Google Maps works really well in Italy, and it’s what we relied on heavily — but there are a few things to keep in mind:
- Download offline maps before you go. Cell service can get spotty in the countryside (especially in Puglia, Tuscany, or mountain regions), so before your trip, download your entire region in Google Maps for offline use. It’s a lifesaver when you lose signal and still need directions.
- Double-check ZTL zones. Even Google Maps isn’t perfect when it comes to Italy’s restricted driving areas. Sometimes it’ll route you right through one without warning. To avoid a fine, look for signs as you enter any town and, when in doubt, park outside the center and walk in.
- Trust the “time,” not the “distance.” Ten miles in Italy is not the same as ten miles at home. Winding rural roads, one-lane stretches, and slower village speed limits can make short distances take longer than expected. If it says it’ll take 45 minutes to go 15 miles, believe it.
- Bring a car charger or portable battery. Navigation will drain your phone battery faster than you think, and not every rental car has USB ports that work properly (learned that the hard way).
Driving Between Destinations in Italy
If you’re planning a road trip that covers multiple regions, renting a car opens up itinerary possibilities that trains simply can’t match. A few routes worth knowing:
Rome to Puglia is a long drive — roughly 4.5 to 5 hours depending on where you’re headed — but entirely doable and mostly along the A14 autostrada. We flew into Rome from LAX on our way to Puglia and took a connecting flight to Bari rather than driving the whole way, which I’d recommend if time is limited. From Bari, you’re ideally positioned to explore the entire region.
The Amalfi Coast is one of the most dramatic drives in the world and also one of the most stressful. The road is narrow, the cliffs are steep, and tour buses take up more than their fair share of space. If you’re basing yourself in Positano or along the Amalfi Coast, many travelers prefer to park in Sorrento or Salerno and take the ferry or local bus into the towns — it removes a lot of the anxiety and honestly makes the arrival more beautiful. If you do drive it, go early in the morning before traffic builds. Personally, I say avoid a rental car in the Amalfi Coast altogether.
Tuscany and Umbria are perhaps the most rewarding regions to explore by car. The hill towns, the countryside estates, the cypress-lined roads — none of it is the same from a train window. If an Italian honeymoon or a slower southern Italy itinerary is on your list, building in a few days of countryside driving is worth every kilometer.
Parking Lines & Lots
Finding parking in Italy can be… an adventure, to put it simply. In bigger towns, it’s usually well-marked, but in smaller villages, it can feel like a bit of a treasure hunt. You’ll see color-coded lines painted on the street — and they actually mean something:
- White lines are free parking (rare but magical when you find them).
- Blue lines mean paid parking — look for a nearby meter (parcometro) to purchase a ticket and display it on your dashboard.
- Yellow lines are for residents, deliveries, or special permits — don’t park here. It’s not worth the risk.
If you’re visiting smaller historic centers, it’s easiest to park just outside the walls at a paid lot and walk in. We did this in Ostuni and Alberobello, and honestly preferred it — no stress about tight streets or surprise ZTLs, and we could enjoy wandering into town without worrying about the car.
Pro Tip: If you’re staying at a hotel or masseria, always ask ahead about on-site parking — most boutique properties in Puglia offer it, but spots can be limited and may need to be reserved in advance. If you’re still deciding where to stay, my guides to the best luxury hotels in Puglia and the top masseria hotels cover properties that handle this beautifully.
Gas Stations
Gas stations (benzinaio) in Italy can feel confusing at first, especially since many close mid-day or operate differently depending on the time of day. Some are full-service (servito), meaning an attendant will pump gas for you, while others are self-service (fai da te). If you are nervous about it at all, just look for a full-service station.
If you’re filling up yourself, note that “benzina” means unleaded gasoline, and “diesel” is simple, it’s diesel — but be sure to double-check before pumping! Many pumps require you to pre-pay or insert a card before fueling. If the station is closed, you can usually still fill up at the outdoor machines by paying with a card, but not all cards work — so it’s good to have a little cash on hand, just in case!
Now that we can laugh about it, one of our pinnacle tourist moments was pulling into a random station outside of the Brindisi Airport in Puglia to fill up our car before returning it. We had no idea what we were doing or how to operate the self-service machine. A nice man tried to help, but didn’t speak English, so he couldn’t understand us, and we couldn’t understand him. Ultimately, the pump was broken, so there wasn’t much we could do (we wasted a little money because of this mix-up). We decided to just drive a little bit and find a full-service. Much, much better choice. A true “we’re not from here” moment.
A few things worth having in the car: a portable phone charger (navigation drains batteries faster than you’d expect), a car charger that actually works — not all rentals have reliable USB ports — and a small amount of cash for gas stations and toll booths that don’t take foreign cards.
Renting a car in Italy can feel daunting at first, especially if you’re used to wide American roads and sensible parking lots. But once you’re past the initial learning curve, there’s something genuinely freeing about having your own wheels — the kind of freedom that lets you stop when the light hits a vineyard just right, or take a detour through a town you’d never have found otherwise. Some of our most memorable moments in Puglia happened exactly like that: unplanned, unhurried, and completely off the itinerary.
If you’re still deciding between trains and a rental car, my guide to train travel in Italy is a good companion read — it covers when the train makes more sense and how to book. And if you’re in the early stages of planning a trip to southern Italy, I’d start with the best things to do in Puglia or our full Italian honeymoon itinerary for a sense of how it all comes together on the road.